After some more research, I decided the configuration mentioned was the right one. Soldered the new pigtail onto my factory wiring, plugged the harness in, installed a brand-new battery, and I’m pumping Some of you may have read my posting a week or two ago regarding my new alternator and wiring running very hot http: Well, it seems the battery was – most likely – the culprit. My battery was 3 years old, and had been through several complete discharges as well as a pretty serious overheating engine a month or two ago. With Arizona temps near , I had a suspicion that it was just done. They say the typical battery lasts 2, maybe 3 years in our brutal summers. Without even testing it, I bought and installed a new battery. The old battery had some slight but noticeable bulging of the sides of the casing when I removed it. With the old battery and a temporary harness connection, I was getting
Alternator Low RPM Charging
Sun Aug 07, 6: I polarized the generator it didn’t spin but the generator light is still on. Here is Speedy Jim’s link on testing and polarizing the generator. Did you try giving it a light spin in the correct direction by hand to get it going? Where are you connecting your probes? With one wire of your MM connected you get a reading?
SI alternators use a three wire hookup, with the large battery stud, a brown exciter wire and smaller red voltage sense wire. The brown wire is what would typically be tied to a charge warning lamp, and is responsible for exciting the charging system.
Keep in mind all the materials I used are “borrowed” from work or I had around the house so they won’t be the most effective solutions. I am told stainless isn’t esential but will not corrode like other metals. I also read that coiled wire would be the best type i. Platinum would be your number 1 choice but who can afford that? I used some pipe I found at work. Plan Your Build Before you start cutting into your own grape juice containers and sealing be sure it fits in your car.
Find a spot to cram your plastic container into. It needs to be away from direct conact to the motor. Near the battery or air filter is preferable. I got lucky that my battery is directly beside my air filter and there is a huge space under the air intake piping. Also, when you have cramed it in there Chances are you will not be able to use the huge bottle I did.
The bottle size will help you determine what kind of electrode you will be using and how much of it you need to obtain. The location will determine how much wire and plastic hose you will need.
Mini BoostPack 12V Capacitor Car Battery
How to Change an Alternator When a vehicle’s alternator is functioning properly, it will put out between 13 and 18 AC volts that power the electronics and ignition system while recharging the battery. But, if it delivers less than 13 volts, the alternator will fail to keep the battery recharged. You can save money when you replace your alternator by doing it yourself and following the steps below.
Since the s, alternators have been of the 3-wire type. Inspect the back and sides of the alternator to locate the two wire connectors. One of the connectors is typically a threaded bolt protruding from the back (the opposite end from the pulley) that a wire with a boot on the connecting end is snapped onto.
The alternator has a centrally rotating set of coils powered from the field terminal. As this rotor turns, it drags a magnetic field past the stationary coils that surround it. This magnetic field generates alternating current within these stationary coils, which then passes through a grid of one-way valves diodes to produce the DC current useful to automotive applications.
The voltage output is governed by the amount of current in the field circuit, and is controlled by the Voltage Regulator. Current is fed to the battery and other power absorbers through the large Bat terminal on the back of the alternator. A ground connection on the alternator case completes the electrical circuit.
I checked around and also learned that since a larger alternator is not straining as hard to put out the same amount of amperage as a smaller alternator might, it works less and lasts longer. I searched the internet and found plenty of 3G alternator upgrades documented, but I was confused, especially with the wiring even though it is simple and did not find one for our trucks. A couple of people were interested in a write up, so here goes!
There are countless reasons to upgrade, and I am not here to sell you on them.
I have an alternator, that has a manual hook up for the wires, the one on the car has an battery wire and an plug in type for two wires, i was just wundering if this alternator can be altered as in cut the plug off and manually hook up the two wires from the plug or do i have to get one with the plug in type.
With the remote voltage-sensing wire connected, the voltage regulator is adjusting voltage at the junction and battery to exactly We have switched on the lights, cooling fans, and heater fan to use current from the main junction in this electrical system The junction is the positive stud on the remote solenoid, next to the battery. The upper meter on the VAT 40 is indicating about a 60 amp alternator output through the 12 feet of red 10 gauge wire.
As the battery was nearly at a fully charged condition, most of this alternator power output is being used to support all the systems we have switched ON. Voltage at the back of the alternator is almost exactly 1 volt higher than it was at the battery in the previous photo, as the remote voltage-sensing is compensating for the voltage drop in the long alternator output wire. Alternator output is slightly higher in this photo than the in the previous, as we left the lights ON while taking a break to answer a tech support phone call.
Now the alternator is supporting the cooling fans, headlights, heater fan, and plus it is recharging the battery! Reading the 3 VOLT, black scale at the lower meter, we are measuring almost exactly a 1 volt drop in the long alternator output wire. The 1 volt drop is exactly the voltage difference between the two previous photos, which compared the We made a short length wire, which would connect the voltage-sensing terminal at the two-wire connector to the output stud at the back of the alternator.
And at the alternator wiring we removed the long length of remote voltage-sensing wire, and installed our new jumper wire. The voltage regulator will now read voltage at the alternator and make adjustments to output as required to maintain about
GPS Speedometers and Electric Gauges for Any Car
My power windows don’t move at all! Check the fuse on the power window relay as well as the relay itself for the windows. Also clean the contacts on the switches as noted above – the current for the passenger window passes through the driver’s side switch, so check them all.
It may be necessary to fabricate brackets if they are not available from a speed shop or junkyard. Be certain the belt lines up straight in the pulleys. Disconnect the negative cable from the vehicle battery. Connect a gauge wire from the output stud on the alternator back to the positive battery terminal.
It is the voltage sense and regulator power lead that picks up the difference in voltage at the alternator output stud and the connection point at the starter solenoid. If you cheat and run it directly to the alternator output, it sees the voltage at the alternator output stud. It does not see the voltage at the starter solenoid connection point where it feeds power to everything else. You may have a voltage drop in the wiring between the alternator output stud and the connection to the starter solenoid.
Thus you may have low voltage or less than the standard regulated voltage at the starter solenoid connection point. This makes for low voltage throughout the rest of the car: Starter solenoid wiring model cars. Connect the fused 4 gauge wire to the alternator and the battery side of the starter solenoid. Starter solenoid wiring Model cars. Alternator troubleshooting for 5. Never, never disconnect an alternator from the battery with the engine running.
How to Choose an Alternator
You can either turn off the running auto before attaching the cables, or leave it running. Admin Edit — Correction Made From the comments area below: Connecting the black ground jumper cable of dead negative grounded vehicles to the sheet metal of the vehicle rather than the negative terminal is a very important safety feature. Batteries can and do emit gas and if you get a spark while connecting the cable to the negative terminal the close proximity to the gas can result in a battery exploding in your face.
Generally, you only make this mistake once. This can either be side-by-side or hood to hood.
i have a ford ranger with a and when i hook up the battery it has a big draw on the battery and the washer pump and the cruise control comes on and the alternator shorts out and it wont even .
C , black C , blue C , black, 3 wires. Some of the wires inside these links are made BOLD. This typically means this wire is needed or very useful in a stand alone harness setup. C2 information is in these links. Info is more complete for , Later years should be similar, use circuit ‘s to compair. Around , the engines no longer had EGR, so that does away with 5 wires. The differences in the ‘s don’t matter a bit when making a harness stand alone.
Very detailed info for what to remove, keep, etc is just a few lines down, I leave all this info so you can see changes year to year if you lik. Helpful tips for harness modification. All the grounds needed will be in the engine harness. Should be a few of them. Rear of engine behind intake, should be two grounds. This is all you need for stand alone.
How to Wire an Electronic Tachometer as Easy as 1-2-3
While it does have some reserve power for small accessories, the extra amperage draw created by a high-power audio system or race electronics, or lighting, etc. Luckily, a simple alternator upgrade can prevent such a catastrophe. Deciding if you need a more-powerful alternator is easy once you understand exactly what kind of power, or amperage, you need. Amperage is defined as the maximum capacity or maximum volume of electricity an alternator is capable of producing.
While many alternators have a percent to percent power reserve to handle additional accessories, this is often insufficient capacity to power high end audio systems or other high-amperage items.
Oct 31, · How To Solder Wires Like A Pro – Duration: Episode 1 Alternator Hook Up – Duration: homesteadprepper 88, views. AutoRestoMod Car Restoration Modification , views.
What used motor should you use? As David discussed, his first version of a home built generator used a vertical shaft lawn mower engine which are very easy to find. These mowers can be had for a song and can be found just about anywhere. They have several of the key components that will be required in this project. They have a base that holds the motor, and a cable for adjusting the motor speed. They also have wheels which are very convenient if you ever plan to move it! The problem is that there are so many brands on the market, and each one it seams builds there own base.
The biggest task in building a home built generator is figuring out how to attach the alternator and motor so that power from the motor can be transferred to cause the alternator to spin and produce electricity.
One more step
Leaving that disconnected won’t affect the charging system, but you’ll want to make sure the connector doesn’t short to ground against any sheetmetal. It’s un-fused and hot at all times. The other wire from the A terminal that goes up through the harness is probably where power is coming from. To make sure, disconnect the battery negative cable first, positive second as always and test for continuity between the inside of that little plug coming off the A terminal, and the positive battery cable.
That will tell you if it ends up being connected, without having to peel back your harness.
But if you insist on using an amp meter, here’s the information. The most important feature of the amp meter is that it is a low resistance high current device. It must be installed in series with an electrical load to limit current flow. If you were to wire the amp meter directly across the battery as you would with a volt meter the amp meter would immediately pass so much current as to fry the meter, almost instantly.
Some amp meters may actually be fused for internal protection. When properly wired in series with an electrical load the amp meter will monitor the current flowing in the circuit. This particular ammeter appears to be manufacture, so not exactly the correct period for MGA. However, since the ammeter was never standard equipment on the MGA, an aftermarket accessory could be almost any design hopfully not ugly.
If you have amp alternator you would need a amp meter. The direct reading vintage analog type dash mounted amp meter requires hookup wires sufficiently large to carry the full current in the circuit being monitored. A 30 amp meter would need a pair of 10 gauge wires.